Exposing Skincare Products: What To Avoid To Stop Allergies

The term cosmetics refers to the group of products that we use to cleanse, treat, enhance our appearance, and protect our skin and hair. This includes the skincare products, shampoos, hair dyes, makeup, and even the sunscreen we use on a daily basis.

Despite their benefits, there has been increasing evidence and cases whereby consumers are experiencing allergies and side effects from using their favorite skincare products.

As it turns out, it is suggested that there are various chemicals commonly used in our products that are actually harmful to our skin and overall health – and this is exacerbated the longer we expose ourselves to it.

According to the Environmental Working Group, the average woman uses up to 12 products on her skin, translating to roughly 168 synthetic and potentially damaging chemicals that our skin is now exposed to. While men use an average of 6 products, this still equates to over 85 different chemicals!

As consumers are starting to put both their skin and body health at the forefront due to the recent COVID-19 pandemic – so are they becoming more aware and mindful about what goes inside the skincare products they buy.

There is an increasing amount of research linking health and skin issues with our skincare products such as allergies, cancer, hormonal disruptions, and reproductive problems – and it is not uncommon for dermatologists to see patients with itchy and inflamed skin, an uncomfortable rash, and swelling of the eyes or lips due to an allergic reaction caused by skincare products.

These symptoms can be even worse for those with an existing skin condition or sensitive skin, including patients with atopic dermatitis.

So, before we dive in to the specific ingredients to avoid – here is what you need to know about skin allergies and irritation:

Allergic Contact Dermatitis and Irritation Are NOT the Same

To the average consumer, the two terms may mean the same thing – but they are actually very different to a doctor or dermatologist.

In short, the diagnosis, symptoms, and treatment of both conditions are different, and it is important for you to understand the differences between the two.

Firstly, skin irritation may not always itch, while allergic contact dermatitis almost always come with itchy skin. In addition, allergic contact dermatitis often may spread to other parts of the body beyond the area of direct contact, while skin irritation is remains localized.

While scientists and doctors cannot say for sure why allergies happen – it is largely due to the body overreacting to a substance that isn’t deemed to be harmful by “normal” individuals. There is a process of “sensitization” that occurs, which is why allergic contact dermatitis may appear only hours, weeks, or months after contact as compared to skin irritation.

Although the main goal is to completely avoid the ingredient causing a reaction – this can be difficult since products often contain more than one potential allergen. Without prompt treatment, frequent flareups can ultimately lead to the breakdown of our skin barrier and collagen sources; resulting in premature skin aging and wrinkling.

However, there are some ingredients that are more prone to causing an adverse reaction – here are 4 common ones:

1. Fragrances

Fragrances are one of the most common chemicals known to cause allergic reactions in patients – one particular study found that a whopping 83% of drugstore creams contained fragrance or a fragrance-related allergen¹!

Most of us aren’t aware of this, but there are anywhere between 4,000 to 7,000 different chemicals labelled under “parfum”, “perfume”, and “fragrances”! The issue is that fragrances are considered to be “trade secrets”, and hence companies and brands don’t always disclose to consumers the exact chemicals found in their products.

While they undoubtedly are an attractive benefit that we look for in many of our products – studies have shown that fragrances emit volatile organic compounds (VOCs) and other toxic chemicals which have been linked to allergic reactions, asthma, and bad headaches².

Topical exposure to fragrances has been shown to lead to contact dermatitis³. Given that fragrances are added to our body wash, shampoos, perfumes, lotions, and many other cosmetic products – this exposes us to a rather large amount of potentially damaging chemicals, and should be avoided whenever possible – especially if you have eczema.

2. Mineral Oils

Mineral oils are actually a by-product of petroleum oil – yes, the very same substance found in motor oil.

Wrapping and coating our skin like plastic, mineral oils are often used in our moisturizers – but unbeknownst to many, it can actually cause our skin to clog up and interfere with its ability to eliminate harmful toxins – leading to acne and adverse reactions overtime.

Usually found in our lotions, creams, and cosmetics – the Environmental Working Group views mineral oils as a possible human immune system toxicant or allergen, and another study going one step further to reveal untreated or mildly treated mineral oils as being carcinogenic to humans³!

Other names under mineral oils that you need to beware of are liquid petroleum, petrolatum, or liquid paraffin.

3. Phthalates

Similar to parabens, phthalates are harmful as they mimic estrogen and has been found to act as a hormone disruptor that has been linked to reproductive defects and developmental problems in children⁴.

Commonly found in our moisturizers, cleansers, and serums, phthalates are often labelled under “fragrances” in our products as they help them adhere to the skin more effectively.

The National Toxicology Program by the U.S. Department of Health and Human Services deems phthalates as probable carcinogens, and this is perhaps the reason why it has been banned by the European Union since 2003.

Phthalates have been shown to easily build up in the body with regular use – making them more dangerous to our health if nothing is done to avoid it.

4. Synthetic Sunscreen

Regarded as an invaluable and essential part of everyone’s skincare routine – did you know that your sunscreen can also harm your skin?

While applying SPF can help to prevent premature aging and excessive DNA damage to our skin – sunscreens containing ingredients including oxybenzones, octocrylene, and octinoxate (the harmful ‘O’s) could be causing more damage than good as they too, are hormone disruptors.

Oxybenzone in particular, has been found to cause DNA mutuations, cell death, and lead to potential cardiovascular concerns⁵. It has also been linked to allergic reactions.

The best filters to use in your sunscreen is zinc and titanium oxide as they are effective in blocking UV rays while being relatively safe to use on our skin. In fact, zinc is known to be a skin healing ingredient that can be helpful for acne patients!

What to Do If You Have a Reaction

The most obvious first step is to stop using the product immediately. If your symptoms persist or is causing a lot of discomfort – consider consulting a doctor to diagnose and treat your condition as soon as possible.

Allergic contact dermatitis oftentimes looks like common skin conditions such as acne or rosacea, which is why it is highly recommended to get properly diagnosed by a professional dermatologist to pinpoint the exact ingredient(s) causing the reaction.

Dermatologist specialists often conduct a simple patch test to find out which ingredient(s) a patient is allergic to. If you are having an active reaction, a doctor can also prescribe topical and oral corticosteroids, as well as a range of topical products to help relieve your symptoms and soothe the skin.

At the end of the day, every individual will react differently to different chemicals and skin care products – the best way to put a stop to allergies is to find out the root cause of the reaction and actively take measures to avoid it altogether.

Let Your Cosmetics Work for You, Not Against You

Our skin has the ability to talk to us in the form of how it looks and feels.

Asian skin tends to more sensitive and prone to allergic reactions due to having a thinner topmost layer (aka the stratum corneum) – this is why we need to be more mindful of choosing products that only work to benefit our skin.

Always actively seek out products where brands and companies are completely transparent about their ingredients and whom you can trust such as a dermatologist.

Do not be quick to believe products with claims such as “hypoallergenic”, “organic”, “100% natural” – instead, learn to scrutinize every ingredients list to spot for potential allergens.

At our dermatology clinic, we are proud to offer a comprehensive range of solutions using only the most innovative and advanced technologies such as the picoway and picosure laser and reliable allergy evaluation and testing techniques such as a patch test to guide you towards healthier and more beautiful skin.

Dr. Angeline Yong is a skin dermatologist that believes in providing personalized care to all her patients that is backed by years of extensive training at medical institutions around the world and more than 15 years of experience.

With her goal and passion in championing healthy hair, skin, and nails, Dr Yong went on to meticulously create her own bespoke skincare range that has been personally tested. The principles behind the range is simple: to be able to customize it to fit every individual’s needs and skin type and create products that are free from parabens, sodium lauryl sulfate, mineral oils, and fragrances. Made of the purest, high-quality, and medical grade ingredients that are scientifically proven to work – contact us to learn more about the AYD skincare range or book a consultation today!

References:
1. Zirwas, M. J., & Stechschulte, S. A. (2008). Moisturizer allergy: diagnosis and management. The Journal of clinical and aesthetic dermatology, 1(4), 38–44.
2. Potera C. Scented products emit a bouquet of VOCs. Environ Health Perspect. 2011;119(1):A16. doi:10.1289/ehp.119-a16
3. IARC Working Group on the Evaluation of Carcinogenic Risk to Humans. Chemical Agents and Related Occupations. Lyon (FR): International Agency for Research on Cancer; 2012. (IARC Monographs on the Evaluation of Carcinogenic Risks to Humans, No. 100F.) MINERAL OILS, UNTREATED OR MILDLY TREATED.Available from: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK304428/
4. Meeker, J. D., Sathyanarayana, S., & Swan, S. H. (2009). Phthalates and other additives in plastics: human exposure and associated health outcomes. Philosophical transactions of the Royal Society of London. Series B, Biological sciences, 364(1526), 2097–2113. https://doi.org/10.1098/rstb.2008.0268
5. Hanson KM, Gratton E, Bardeen CJ. Sunscreen enhancement of UV-induced reactive oxygen species in the skin. Free Radic Biol Med. 2006;41(8):1205-1212. doi:10.1016/j.freeradbiomed.2006.06.011

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Exposing Skincare Products: What To Avoid To Stop Allergies