Hydrating Vs Moisturising: Know Your Skincare Ingredients

One important step in maintaining healthy skin is moisturising it in order to maintain its smooth, supple texture. While often mentioned together, many people are unaware that moisturising and hydrating the skin actually mean different things.

The basic difference is that moisturising is about preventing water loss from the skin, while hydration is about absorbing water into the skin’s outermost layer. The ingredients used to achieve both functions are also different. Some people and product labels don’t make the distinction between moisturising and hydration because there is no standard definition stipulating what a ‘moisturiser’ is¹. So, instead of relying on the main product label, it is helpful to understand the common types of moisturising and hydrating ingredients.

Humectants

A product with ‘hydrating properties’ usually contains a humectant, which is any compound that can draw water into the outermost layer of the skin. Some humectants draw water from the deeper layers of skin to the outermost layer, while some also help the skin absorb water from the surrounding environment. This results in a plumper, more supple appearance for the skin.

Below are some examples of humectants:

Hyaluronic acid: Hyaluronic acid is considered suitable for all skin types as it is a compound produced naturally in the body. Hyaluronic acid in cosmetics is chemically synthesised.
Glycerin: Glycerin or glycol is obtained from vegetable oils. It is effective for most skin types but is susceptible to degradation in hot and humid conditions.
Sorbitol: Better known as an artificial sweetener, sorbitol is a sugar alcohol that also has humectant and antibacterial properties.
Alpha-hydroxy acids: Found in citrus, apples, and sugar cane, AHAs enhance the absorption of ingredients into the skin, making it a good humectant. However, it can cause light sensitivity in some users, especially those with fair skin.
Urea: Urea is part of the body’s natural moisturising factor (NMF)² and can also be found in skincare products for its hydrating properties.

Occlusives

Occlusives are commonly found in moisturisers, as they create a barrier on the skin’s layer to prevent water loss. Most are oils which work by blocking the skin’s exposure to air and slowing down the rate of evaporation. Some humectants also have occlusive properties.

Below are some common occlusives found in moisturisers:

Petroleum jelly: Also known as soft paraffin, petrolatum, white petrolatum, or mineral oil, this ingredient has a melting point close to body temperature, making it glide easily to coat the skin with its water-repellent film.
Lanolin: Lanolin is oil from sheep’s wool, which has water-repellent properties. The downside is that it is relatively expensive and can be irritating to some types of skin.
Silicone derivatives: Silicones are man-made compounds with a weaker moisturising effect compared to petroleum jelly. However, they are less greasy and are often used to make petroleum jelly products feel less oily.

Emollients

Emollients are another common class of ingredients found in moisturisers. Their main function is not to hydrate or moisturise but instead to improve the texture and appearance of the skin. They remain on the surface of the skin, functioning as a lubricant and primer to even out the skin’s texture¹.

Examples of emollients commonly used in moisturisers are:

Oleic acid: Derived from vegetable oils, oleic acid is an effective emollient, but it can disrupt the skin barrier and cause dermatitis if used extensively³.
Stearic acid: Stearic acid can be derived from plant and animal fats, including shea butter, coconut oil, and safflower seed oil. It is generally safe for use in skincare products and cosmetics, but some people may be allergic to it.
Linoleic acid: Also known as vitamin F, linoleic acid is derived from vegetable oils and bears anti-inflammatory properties as well as emollient properties. It is an essential fatty acid for the skin to create ceramides, a natural compound on the skin’s barrier.

Conclusion

As everyone’s skin has different needs, it is not enough to pick up any moisturiser at the store. Understanding the different moisturising and hydrating ingredients can help you pick the most suitable ones for your skin’s condition and needs. In addition to skincare and cosmetic products, it is also possible to explore aesthetic treatments for deeper hydrating effects to achieve fuller, plumper skin.

Besides treatments like chemical peels and picosecond lasers in Singapore, Angeline Yong Dermatology carries a bespoke skincare range which is medically tested and formulated to suit various skin types and needs. Alternatively, our dermatology clinic provides the Hydrafacial treatment as an option for those who want to enjoy a 3-step skin-pampering session, inclusive of exfoliation, intense hydration, and skin protection. To find out more about our skincare range and treatments, get in touch today.

References

Purnamawati, S., Indrastuti, N., Danarti, R., & Saefudin, T. (2017). The role of moisturizers in addressing various kinds of dermatitis: A review. Clinical Medicine & Research, 15(3-4), 75–87. https://doi.org/10.3121/cmr.2017.1363

Piquero-Casals, J., Morgado-Carrasco, D., Granger, C., Trullàs, C., Jesús-Silva, A., & Krutmann, J. (2021). Urea in dermatology: a review of its emollient, moisturizing, keratolytic, skin barrier enhancing and antimicrobial properties. Dermatology and Therapy, 11(6), 1905–1915. https://doi.org/10.1007/s13555-021-00611-y

Jiang, S.J., Zhou, X.J. (2003). Examination of the mechanism of oleic acid-induced percutaneous penetration enhancement: An ultrastructural study. Biological and Pharmaceutical Bulletin, 26(66–68). https://doi.org/10.1248/bpb.26.66

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Hydrating Vs Moisturising: Know Your Skincare Ingredients