Niacinamide is everywhere right now. It is on TikTok routines, Instagram skincare shelves, and product labels in almost every pharmacy. It gets recommended casually too, like a safe starter active that everyone should add, no matter their skin type. If you have ever asked for a skincare suggestion online, you have probably been told to “just add niacinamide” at least once.
But when a skincare ingredient becomes this popular, a fair question follows: is niacinamide actually that good, or is it just hype? The short answer is that niacinamide is not overrated as an ingredient. However, the way it is marketed, layered, and used can absolutely be overrated.
Dr Angeline Yong’s practical take is simple: niacinamide can help many skin concerns, but it is not a miracle solution, and it is not suitable for every single person in every single routine.
First, what exactly is niacinamide?
Niacinamide is also known as nicotinamide, which is a form of vitamin B3. In skincare, it is commonly used in leave-on products like serums, toners, moisturisers, and even sunscreens.
What makes niacinamide special is that it has multiple skin benefits and is generally well-tolerated. It is not like strong exfoliating acids or prescription retinoids, where irritation is expected early on. In many studies, topical niacinamide shows improvements in skin tone, texture, pigmentation, and barrier function1.
Why dermatologists still like niacinamide, even with the hype
Niacinamide is popular for a reason. When formulated well and used appropriately, it has real strengths backed by clinical evidence and dermatology literature.
1. It supports your skin barrier
One of niacinamide’s most helpful roles is improving skin barrier function, which matters more than most people realise. A stronger barrier means:
- less dryness and flaking
- less sensitivity
- better tolerance to other active ingredients
- improved overall comfort
This is why niacinamide is often recommended for irritated, stressed-out, or over-exfoliated skin1, 2.
2. It helps with uneven tone and pigmentation
Niacinamide is frequently used for dullness and dark spots. Research suggests it can reduce pigmentation by interfering with the transfer of melanosomes (pigment-containing structures) to skin cells. This matters because it targets one of the reasons uneven tone becomes visible on the skin surface2.
Niacinamide has also been studied in melasma treatment, showing improvement and being generally well tolerated compared to some harsher pigment treatments3.
3. It can calm inflammation
Redness, blotchiness, and irritation can have many causes, from acne to rosacea tendencies to product overload. Niacinamide has anti-inflammatory properties that may help calm reactive skin4.
This is why it is often found in products marketed for sensitive skin, acne-prone skin, or barrier repair routines.
4. It can support acne-prone skin
Niacinamide is not a classic acne medicine like benzoyl peroxide or adapalene, but it may still be helpful for acne, especially when inflammation is a major trigger. DermNet describes topical nicotinamide as showing effectiveness in acne, and even notes a study where it performed similarly to topical clindamycin in moderate acne5.
So… why do some people say it does nothing?
This is where the reality check comes in. Niacinamide is useful, but it is not dramatic. Many people expect instant transformation because of how it is advertised online. In practice, you are more likely to see subtle benefits such as:
- smoother texture
- reduced redness
- improved hydration
- gradual brightening
If someone has severe acne, deep melasma, or hormonal breakouts, niacinamide may not look like it is doing much because the core cause needs medical treatment, not just supportive skincare.
That is when visiting a skin specialist clinic becomes important, because it helps you avoid wasting months rotating trending products while the real issue continues underneath.
When niacinamide is genuinely worth it
Dr Angeline Yong would likely recommend niacinamide when your skin goals are:
- strengthening your barrier
- calming sensitivity
- reducing mild redness
- improving uneven tone gradually
- supporting acne routines (not replacing them)
It is also a good ingredient for people who want something effective but not overly harsh.
Who should avoid niacinamide
Even though niacinamide is often marketed as for everyone, some people do better without it.
1. People with highly reactive or allergy-prone skin
Some people experience:
- stinging
- redness
- tiny bumps
- itchiness
This does not always mean niacinamide is bad. Sometimes it is the formula, the concentration, or the combination of ingredients.
2. People using too many actives at once
If your routine already contains:
- retinoids
- exfoliating acids (AHA/BHA)
- strong vitamin C
- acne treatments
Adding niacinamide may not help if your skin barrier is already overwhelmed. You might end up blaming niacinamide when the real issue is overuse and layering.
3. People using high concentrations
Many products contain 2% to 5% niacinamide, which is often enough. Some formulas go up to 10% or more. Higher is not always better, especially if you are sensitive and this can cause more redness and irritation at higher concentrations.
How to use niacinamide properly
A simple approach tends to work best:
Step 1: Start low and slow
If you are new:
- use once daily
- choose a lower percentage
- avoid introducing multiple new actives in the same week
Step 2: Focus on consistency, not layering
You don’t need six serums to boost results. A basic routine works well for most people:
- gentle cleanser
- Moisturiser
- sunscreen (daytime)
- niacinamide (optional)
- targeted treatment if needed
Step 3: Track your skin like data
If you develop irritation, note:
- what product you used
- how often
- whether you layered other actives
- whether your skin was already dry or sensitised
This is far more useful than switching products randomly every week. And yes, niacinamide combinations can matter in routines, but the key is not overcomplicating.
When niacinamide is not enough
If your main concern is:
- melasma that keeps returning
- persistent acne
- rosacea-like flushing
- recurrent eczema flare-ups
- ongoing irritation no matter what you use
The chances are that niacinamide is not the missing step. You likely need a proper diagnosis, prescription treatment, or a clinic-grade plan.
Final verdict: Is niacinamide overrated?
Niacinamide itself is not overrated. It is a genuinely useful ingredient with evidence-backed benefits, especially for barrier support, inflammation, and gradual brightening1, 2.
What is overrated is the belief that one trendy serum can replace good skincare basics, professional assessment, and medical treatment when needed.
Conclusion
If you are unsure whether niacinamide suits your skin, or you have tried it and still struggle with breakouts, pigmentation, or irritation, it may be time to get a personalised plan rather than more guesswork.
Angeline Yong Dermatology offers treatments and professional guidance to help you understand what your skin truly needs, so your routine becomes simpler, safer, and more effective.
References
Bissett, D. L., Oblong, J. E., & Berge, C. A. (2005). Niacinamide: A B vitamin that improves aging facial skin appearance. Dermatologic surgery : official publication for American Society for Dermatologic Surgery [et al.], 31(7 Pt 2), 860–865. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1524-4725.2005.31732
Boo Y. C. (2021). Mechanistic Basis and Clinical Evidence for the Applications of Nicotinamide (Niacinamide) to Control Skin Aging and Pigmentation. Antioxidants (Basel, Switzerland), 10(8), 1315. https://doi.org/10.3390/antiox10081315
Navarrete-Solís, J., Castanedo-Cázares, J. P., Torres-Álvarez, B., Oros-Ovalle, C., Fuentes-Ahumada, C., González, F. J., Martínez-Ramírez, J. D., & Moncada, B. (2011). A Double-Blind, Randomized Clinical Trial of Niacinamide 4% versus Hydroquinone 4% in the Treatment of Melasma. Dermatology research and practice, 2011, 379173. https://doi.org/10.1155/2011/379173
Wohlrab, J., & Kreft, D. (2014). Niacinamide – mechanisms of action and its topical use in dermatology. Skin pharmacology and physiology, 27(6), 311–315. https://doi.org/10.1159/000359974
Nicotinamide. DermNet®. (2025, May 8). https://dermnetnz.org/topics/nicotinamide