
You’ve probably come across a TikTok or two where skincare influencers insist that once you hit 25, you need to start using retinol. It’s almost become a rite of passage, like buying your first anti-ageing cream or finally committing to sunscreen every day. But then, you scroll a little further and see people talking about retinal or retinoid, and suddenly, you’re not sure which one you should be using. Are they the same thing? Do they all do the same job?
The short answer: they’re related, but not identical. Think of them as being part of the same family. Each member works a little differently, some stronger than others, but they all aim to help your skin look smoother, clearer, and more radiant. Understanding how they differ can help you make smarter skincare choices and avoid unnecessary irritation or wasted effort.
Understanding the retinoid family
“Retinoid” is the umbrella term that covers all vitamin A derivatives used in skincare. That includes retinol, retinal (also known as retinaldehyde), and prescription-strength options such as tretinoin. All retinoids share one goal: to boost skin cell turnover and stimulate collagen production1. The result is improved texture, reduced fine lines, and a more even skin tone.
The main difference lies in how fast and effectively each type converts into retinoic acid, which is the active form your skin can actually use. The closer a product is to retinoic acid, the more potent it tends to be, but also the more likely it is to cause irritation, redness, or dryness, especially if your skin isn’t used to it2.
Retinol: The popular starter
Retinol is the most common form you’ll see on shelves, and for good reason. It offers visible results while being relatively gentle compared to prescription-strength formulas. Retinol has to go through a two-step conversion process: it first converts to retinal, then to retinoic acid3. Because of these extra steps, it works more slowly but is better tolerated by most skin types.
Over time, retinol helps reduce the appearance of fine lines, smooths uneven texture, and can even fade dark spots. However, it’s not a “quick fix.” Most dermatologists recommend giving it at least 12 weeks to see consistent improvements2. It’s also important to start with a lower concentration (like 0.1% or 0.3%) and build up gradually to avoid dryness and flaking.
Retinal: The ‘middle child’ with extra power
If you’re ready to take your skincare up a notch, retinal – or retinaldehyde – might be your next step. Retinal only needs one conversion step to become retinoic acid, making it stronger and faster-acting than retinol.
Studies have shown that retinal can deliver anti-ageing and anti-acne benefits comparable to prescription-strength tretinoin, but with much less irritation2. It’s often described as a “happy medium” between effectiveness and gentleness.
Another advantage is that retinal has antibacterial properties that can help improve acne-prone skin, which makes it appealing for those who struggle with both ageing concerns and breakouts. However, like retinol, it can still cause mild irritation during the first few weeks, so it’s best introduced gradually.
Retinoid: The potent prescription
Now, let’s talk about the strongest member of the family: prescription retinoids like tretinoin, adapalene, or tazarotene. These are already in the active retinoic acid form, meaning your skin doesn’t have to convert them. That makes them far more potent and results-driven1.
Prescription retinoids are often recommended for treating moderate to severe acne, deep wrinkles, and hyperpigmentation. However, because they act so powerfully, they can also trigger redness, peeling, and sensitivity, especially when first introduced. Dermatologists usually recommend starting with a low frequency (for example, applying twice a week) before working up to daily use.
This category requires medical guidance. Using prescription retinoids without professional advice can lead to over-exfoliation and compromised skin barriers, which may cause more harm than good.
How to choose what’s right for you
Choosing between retinol, retinal, and retinoid depends on your skin goals, sensitivity level, and how much experience you have with vitamin A products. Here’s a quick guide:
| Type | Strength | Conversion Steps to Retinoic Acid | Best For | Common Side Effects | 
| Retinol | Mild to Moderate | 2 | Beginners, dullness, fine lines | Mild dryness or flaking | 
| Retinal (Retinaldehyde) | Moderate to Strong | 1 | Ageing skin, acne-prone skin | Temporary redness | 
| Retinoid (e.g., Tretinoin) | Strong | 0 | Deep wrinkles, acne, pigmentation | Peeling, sensitivity | 
If you’re just starting your morning and night skincare journey, retinol is a great first step. It’s beginner-friendly, widely available, and can deliver visible improvements over time. Once your skin builds tolerance, you might consider moving on to retinal for stronger results.
Those with more advanced skin concerns or under a dermatologist’s supervision can explore prescription retinoids for faster, more targeted outcomes. However, it’s essential to pair them with good moisturisers and daily sunscreen, as retinoids can make your skin more sensitive to the sun.
Pairing retinoids with professional treatments
While topical retinoids can significantly improve skin texture and tone, combining them with professional treatments can enhance results further. For example, Morpheus 8 treatment, a minimally invasive radiofrequency microneedling procedure, targets deeper skin layers to boost collagen and tighten skin. When used alongside a tailored retinoid routine (under dermatological guidance), it can help refine skin texture, reduce scars, and amplify rejuvenation outcomes.
However, it’s vital to coordinate both carefully. Using retinoids immediately before or after energy-based treatments can irritate the skin. Always discuss timing and product use with your dermatologist to ensure your skin heals properly and benefits from both treatments safely.
Common myths about retinoids
Myth 1: Retinoids thin the skin.
In reality, retinoids do the opposite. They actually thicken the dermis (the deeper skin layer) by stimulating collagen production. The temporary peeling or dryness you may experience doesn’t mean your skin is becoming thinner; it’s simply adjusting to increased cell turnover1. It also helps to encourage cell cycle turnover, which is great for reducing build-up in the epidermal layer and hence makes the skin smoother and less prone to congestion and acne.
Myth 2: You can’t use retinoids if you have sensitive skin.
While some forms may be too harsh initially, there are lower-strength formulations and buffer techniques (like mixing with moisturiser) that make retinoids accessible even for sensitive skin types. Retinal is often a suitable choice for those who can’t tolerate prescription-strength versions.
Myth 3: Retinoids and exfoliating acids can’t be used together.
They can be combined carefully, but not necessarily on the same day or same application. Alternating days or using acids in the morning and retinoids at night helps prevent over-exfoliation while maximising benefits2.
Conclusion
Retinol, retinal, and retinoid all belong to the same powerful family of vitamin A derivatives, but their strength, conversion rate, and potential side effects differ. If you’re new to this world, start slow, use plenty of hydration, and always follow up with sunscreen during the day.
For those ready to take their skin health further, consulting a dermatologist can help tailor a plan that suits your skin’s unique needs. At Angeline Yong Dermatology, you’ll find comprehensive cosmetic, surgical, and medical dermatology treatments in Singapore, including evidence-based solutions to help you achieve healthy, confident skin, whatever your goals.
References
Mukherjee, S., Date, A., Patravale, V., Korting, H. C., Roeder, A., & Weindl, G. (2006). Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clinical interventions in aging, 1(4), 327–348. https://doi.org/10.2147/ciia.2006.1.4.327
Zasada, M., & Budzisz, E. (2019). Retinoids: active molecules influencing skin structure formation in cosmetic and dermatological treatments. Postepy dermatologii i alergologii, 36(4), 392–397. https://doi.org/10.5114/ada.2019.87443


