Why Azelaic Acid Works For Acne And Rosacea Relief

Azelaic acid has been making waves all over skincare TikTok lately. From before-and-after videos to glowing reviews, many content creators have been singing its praises. The appeal? A supposedly gentle but powerful solution for common skin conditions like acne and rosacea. Its rise to fame has been gradual, but those who’ve tried it swear by its calming and skin-refining effects.

With all the buzz, it’s only fair to ask: Does azelaic acid truly live up to the hype? And more importantly, how does this ingredient work for acne and rosacea relief? Here’s a deep dive into what makes azelaic acid such a valuable addition to your skincare routine and why even professionals are recommending it for clearer, calmer skin.

What is azelaic acid?

Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring acid found in grains like barley, wheat, and rye, though the azelaic acid used in skincare products is usually lab-engineered to ensure purity and consistency.

Scientifically, azelaic acid is a dicarboxylic acid that offers antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, and keratolytic (exfoliating) properties¹. It’s often found in gels, creams, or foam formulas ranging from 10% (over-the-counter) to 15 – 20% (prescription)².

How does azelaic acid help acne?

Azelaic acid targets acne in a few smart ways. Firstly, it reduces the growth of Propionibacterium acnes, the bacteria associated with acne breakouts³. By lowering bacterial numbers, it helps prevent the formation of new pimples and calms existing ones.

Secondly, azelaic acid helps to gently exfoliate the skin by encouraging cell turnover. This process unclogs pores and prevents the build-up of dead skin cells, a common trigger for blackheads and whiteheads. What’s more, it does all of this without being overly irritating, making it suitable for sensitive skin types.

People dealing with post-acne marks will be happy to know azelaic acid can also help reduce hyperpigmentation. It interferes with melanin production, fading dark spots over time for a more even complexion¹.

How does it work for rosacea?

Rosacea is a chronic skin condition characterised by visible blood vessels, flushing, redness, and sometimes acne-like bumps. For those dealing with rosacea, the skin can often feel irritated or sensitive to many common ingredients.

Azelaic acid has proven to be quite effective in calming rosacea symptoms. Thanks to its anti-inflammatory properties, it reduces redness and swelling without the harshness of more aggressive treatments. Many dermatologists recommend azelaic acid as a first-line treatment, especially in cases where rosacea is accompanied by bumps or pustules.

What’s notable is how well-tolerated azelaic acid is. Unlike retinoids, which can cause flaking and irritation, azelaic acid is usually gentle enough to use daily, even when managing rosacea.

What makes it stand out?

Azelaic acid has a unique charm because it multitasks. Acne? It’s got antibacterial properties. Rosacea? It calms inflammation. Pigmentation? It evens tone. Many active ingredients target one issue, but azelaic acid works across multiple concerns, making it especially helpful for people with complex or overlapping skin issues.

Other benefits? It plays well with other ingredients. You can use it alongside niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, and even retinol (with caution), making it a versatile addition to your skincare routine. Those prone to eczema or irritation from stronger actives may find it a more suitable option when guided by an eczema specialist in Singapore.

Another major plus is that azelaic acid is safe for use during pregnancy. This is unlike retinoids used for acne management, and lightening agents such as hydroquinone which are used for treating various pigmentation problems. This makes it one of the safest go to ingredients to use during pregnancy to manage not only acne and rosacea, but also to control and improve pigmentation issues such as melasma which could potentially not only start but worsen during pregnancy due to hormonal changes.

Should you try it?

If you’ve been dealing with stubborn breakouts, redness, or discolouration, azelaic acid might just be the gentle ingredient your skin needs. Of course, every skin type is different. While it’s generally well-tolerated, some people may experience mild tingling or dryness at first.

Those with underlying skin conditions or very sensitive skin should consider consulting a dermatologist in Singapore before adding azelaic acid to their routine. A specialist can help you determine the right strength and formula based on your unique skin needs and ensure that it complements your existing products.

For people managing rosacea, it’s especially helpful to approach treatment with professional guidance, as flare-ups can vary in triggers and severity.

Conclusion

The skincare world is full of trending ingredients, but azelaic acid is one that genuinely earns its praise. Whether you’re battling breakouts, redness, or pigmentation, its anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties make it a well-rounded option that’s gentle on the skin. Plus, its versatility means it fits into many skincare routines without causing chaos.

If you’re considering incorporating azelaic acid or need help navigating your skin journey, it’s a great idea to speak with a professional. Angeline Yong Dermatology offers comprehensive cosmetic, surgical, and medical dermatology services in Singapore, helping patients treat skin concerns safely and effectively. Dr Angeline Yong is dedicated to helping you find solutions that truly suit your skin and support you every step of the way.

References

Fitton, A., & Goa, K. L. (1991). Azelaic acid. A review of its pharmacological properties and therapeutic efficacy in acne and hyperpigmentary skin disorders. Drugs, 41(5), 780–798. https://doi.org/10.2165/00003495-199141050-00007

Migala, J. (2024, June 30). What Is Azelaic Acid? Benefits, Side Effects, Usage, More. Everyday Health. https://www.everydayhealth.com/healthy-skin/azelaic-acid/guide/

Thiboutot, D., Gollnick, H., Bettoli, V., Dréno, B., Kang, S., Leyden, J. J., Shalita, A. R., Lozada, V. T., Berson, D., Finlay, A., Goh, C. L., Herane, M. I., Kaminsky, A., Kubba, R., Layton, A., Miyachi, Y., Perez, M., Martin, J. P., Ramos-E-Silva, M., See, J. A., … Global Alliance to Improve Outcomes in Acne (2009). New insights into the management of acne: an update from the Global Alliance to Improve Outcomes in Acne group. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 60(5 Suppl), S1–S50. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jaad.2009.01.019

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Why Azelaic Acid Works For Acne And Rosacea Relief